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Caring for Your Canine Friend

What follows is some basic information for the new puppy owner. It is meant as a guide only. There are many books available on dogs and dog care, as well as breed specific books. The internet is also a good information source.

Remember:
If you are worried about your puppy's health, don't surf the net, see a vet!!

General Health and Care
Worming
Vaccinations
Feeding
Grooming
Fleas
Scooting
Heartworm Disease
Breeding
Desexing
Bedding & Housing
Training
Identification
Poisons

General Health and Care

Treat your puppy as a friend and companion which means taking proper care of him, as well as training him. Keep the puppy in a fenced yard so that he stays off of roads and out of other dangerous situations. Try not to keep him chained up for long periods of time. Also remember to:

  • vaccinate your puppy when due
  • worm your puppy regularly
  • watch your puppy's coat for bare patches and grass seeds
  • examine the puppy's nose, ears, feet and eyes regularly
  • feed him a balanced diet
  • ensure clean water is available for him to drink at ALL times
  • give your puppy access to fresh air and exercise
Finally, always watch your puppy for any sudden change which may indicate the need for veterinary attention.

Worming

Intestinal worms are a common problem of all dogs. The majority of pups are born with Roundworm, regardless of whether the dam has been wormed or not. This is due to the lifecycle of the roundworm. Hookworm is also a common "puppy worm" in other parts of Australia, but is rare in our area.

We recommend worming puppies with piperazine for roundworm every 2 weeks between 2-12 weeks of age, then every month till 6 months of age. Worming for tapeworms can be given from 8 weeks of age if fleas are a problem, as these transmit tapeworms.

Dogs over 6 months of age should be routinely wormed for roundworm, hookworm and tapeworm. We recommend DRONTAL as it is an allwormer that covers eleven species of worm, including the Hydatid Tapeworm, which is a major health threat to humans.

Frequency of worming differs according to the age of the dog, the climate, and which worms are prevalent in the area. Most adult dogs in the Bunbury area only require worming every 6 months or so. Note that re-infection can occur from parks, gardens and other dogs, so keep an eye on the dog's motions from time to time. If worms or tapeworm segment are seen, an additional worming dose will be required.

Worming summary

Ask YOUR vet:

1. Which worms are prevalent in your area;
2. Which worm treatment he recommends for your area;
3. How often your dog should be wormed.

Vaccinations

Vaccination schedules differ radically throughout the world so it is most important that you contact YOUR vet for advise on which diseases to vaccinate against, and when!

In Australia, all puppies should be vaccinated against the three major infectious diseases of dogs. They are Distemper, Hepatitis and Parvovirus. Young puppies are temporarily protected against many diseases by antibodies received through the mother's milk.

Puppies should have their first vaccination between 6-8 weeks of age. This is a temporary vaccination.

The next vaccination can be given from 12-14 weeks of age, and a further vaccination may be deemed necessary at 16 weeks of age. These provide your puppy with protection for his first year of life.

Vaccination can take up to two weeks to take full effect, so isolation is recommended for your dog's health's sake.

A booster shot each year will provide your dog with ongoing protection.

Feeding

Feed young puppies 3-4 times a day. Always include a meal of milk food into your puppy's diet. This provides the calcium he needs for healthy bone growth. Encourage your puppy to eat table scraps, including vegetables which contain trace elements and vitamins. It also makes for a less-fussy eater in the future!

Up until 12 weeks of age, we recommend that you feed cereal and milk only. A small amount of Pal Puppy Food is okay, but keep meat to a minimum. After 12 weeks of age and into adulthood, we recommend a diet consisting of one-third or less cooked meat products to two-thirds cereal, rice, pasta and vegetables.

There is a lot of debate over the subject of feeding bones. Generally, we advise against it. Bones can cause internal injuries, and choking, but more commonly, small pieces of bone compact in the dog's intestine, causing a nasty constipation or complete bowel blockage. This is a medical emergency requiring surgery. Fish, chicken and rabbit bones are especially dangerous.

Avoid feeding your dog "junk food". Chocolate is actually poisonous to dogs and can kill them in great enough amounts. Other sweet foods will only make him fat and can cause teeth problems.

Finally, avoid over-feeding your puppy. Fat puppies are cute but they are NOT healthy. Overweight may contribute to joint defects such as hip dysplaysia.

Grooming

All dogs require some sort of attention to their coat, ears, eyes, teeth, and nails. Always watch ears, eyes and nose for any signs of inflammation or discharge indicating the need for veterinary help. Daily brushing is absolutely necessary for long-haired dogs, and beneficial to all dogs to keep skin and coat in top condition.

During summer, grass seeds can find their way into dogs' coats. They may also enter the ears where they cause the dog to shake his head and scratch at the side of the face. The dog will need to visit the vet and have the seed/s removed. Do not attempt this yourself. Seeds may also lodge between the toes or under the front legs, where they cause small abcesses which will need to be lanced. Left untreated, the seeds will continue to travel in one direction, into the dog's flesh.

If your dog is a high-maintenance breed such as a poodle, and you feel unable to look after its coat yourself, most vets have access to dog groomers who can clip your pet attractively and advise you on its care. Please, do not leave a dog until it gets so matted that it needs to be clipped to the skin. This is unfair to the dog and amounts to neglect.

Fleas

Never use flea collars or strong chemicals on young puppies under 6 months of age. Any very small animal should also be treated very cautiously (eg. chihuahua's, miniature pinschers, etc).

The most popular flea treatment on sale at the clinic RIGHT NOW is Frontline. Frontline is a spray which can safely be used in puppies from 2 days of age. It is very safe and works by interfering with the flea's nervous system. It is sprayed onto the dog as a measured dose where it binds to the oils in the coat, killing all fleas which come into contact with it within 24 hours. It only needs to be applied every 10-12 weeks. Washing (if not done within 2 days of spraying) does not seem to diminish the spray's activity noticably.

Also available is Program, a once-a-month oral treatment which is also very safe. Program is given with food. It does not kill adult fleas, but works by rendering any flea that bites the animal sterile. Any eggs that are laid are sterile and will not hatch. This means that once the adult flea dies, there are no replacements coming up behind. Over a period of 3-6 months (depending on the numbers of flea eggs, larvae, & pupae already in the environment), the flea population is reduced to such a degree that they cease to be a problem. All dogs and cats in the household should be treated simultaneously with Program, throughout the year, for full benefit.

Scooting

Your dog may drag his bottom along the ground when his anal glands need emptying. These are scent glands just inside and adjacent to the dog's anus. Consult a vet for help. Rarely, this may be a sign of tapeworm infection.

Heartworm

Heartworm is a worm that lives in the dog's heart and, as such, is not controlled by normal intestinal worm treatments. Heartworm disease is easily transmitted from one dog to the next by mosquitoes. A dog infected with Heartworm may have one or many worms in the heart, causing heart and/or respiratory problems. Treatment of dogs with Heartworm disease is both costly and carries some risk to the dog. Often, by the time the dog is noticably ill, considerable damage has already been done to the heart and blood vessels surrounding it.

Heartworm can be prevented by dosing with preventative tablets or syrup.

Puppies less than 5 months of age can be started on preventative medication immediately. ALL dogs should be tested for Heartworm at six months of age, and those not already on preventative can then be started on it, provided they test clear of infection. Should the test prove positive, the dog will usually need to be hospitalised and treated before a preventative regime is commenced.

Daily or monthly preventatives are available. Contact your vet who will help you choose which one best suits your dog and lifestyle.

Dogs over 6 months of age must be tested before a preventative is given as an infected dog could react badly to the preventative, and may even die.

Breeding

Unless you intend to breed dogs, your female should be desexed as early as 6 months of age. Females first come 'on heat' between the ages of 6 and 18 months. The usual signs of heat are swelling of the vulva, and a bloody discharge. The best days to mate her are usually days 10-14 of the heat, although these vary from dog to dog. The veterinarian can perform a simple test to more accurately pinpoint the best time for mating. A pregnancy test can be carried out by the veterinarian four weeks after mating and the puppies should arrive after 9 weeks (63 days).

Desexing

If your dog is not a purebred, or you do not wish to breed, both males and females should be desexed at 6 months of age.

Male dogs who are desexed tend to wander less, are less aggressive (although they will still guard your property), do not 'embarrass' you in front of guests, do not lift their leg in the house, and cannot breed. Female dogs who are desexed do not come 'on heat' (which usually happens every 6 months or so) and so do not attract the neighbourhood's male dogs and do not drip blood in the house. They also cannot become pregnant.

Desexing tends to increase a dog's lifespan and reduces the risk of breast cancer and uterine diseases in females. Testicular and prostate cancer, some hernias, and other related problems are common in male dogs who have not been desexed.

Bedding & Housing

Provide your puppy with a warm bed which can be a dog basket or wooden box with one side cut out. An old blanket spread on the bottom of the box will provide extra warmth. Keep the bed in the same place at all times so that the dog recognises it as a safe place that he can go to. Never use it as punishment.

You should decide right from the start whether your dog will live inside or out, and stick to it. If the dog will live outside, provide a well-made kennel which is water and wind-proof. Bedding and kennels should be cleaned and sprayed for fleas regularly.

Training

Below are some basic training techniques. Obedience school is great fun and highly recommended.

  1. Use the word "NO" whenever your puppy is doing something which you do not want him to do. Remember to be consistent with your commands.
  2. Toileting - take the puppy outside first thing in the morning, after every sleep, after every meal and last thing at night. If the pup has an accident inside, say NO and take him outside. Severe punishment, especially a long time after the event, may cause confusion, or hiding or eating of the stool. Remember to give LOTS OF praise when the puppy does the right thing.
  3. Chewing and biting - tell the pup NO and then immediately offer a very large marrow bone or chewable toy and give praise when it's used.
  4. NEVER call a puppy or dog to come to you and then punish him. Regardless of what the dog has done wrong, he will associate the punishment with what he did last - which was coming to you. He will quickly learn not to come when called. If you need to reprimand the dog, you need to catch the dog in the act and go to the dog. Coming to you should be a pleasant experience. Always praise the dog for coming when called.
  5. Leash training - put a collar on your puppy as soon as you obtain him so he can become accustomed to wearing one. After a short time, attach a lead to the collar and let the dog drag it around (supervised of course). Once the pup is used to the lead, you can pick up the lead and encourage the pup to follow you. Do not drag him but use lots of praise. Sometimes a piece of food in your hand will encourage the puppy to walk with you. Always reward the pup with a pat, lots of praise and/or a food reward when he follows you correctly.

    Identification

    An ID Tag is he best way to provide identity for your puppy and any other pets you own, should they become lost. The tag shoud include the dog's name, address, phone number, and your name. The vet's phone number is also a good idea.

    New technology in the form of microchips are also available. Contact your vet to see if they have the necessary equipment. A small microchip containing a number which is linked to a computer database is injected under the skin on the neck. This can be read by any vet or shire council with access to a microchip scanner. It is a permanent way of identifying your pet.

    Poisons

    Household, garage and garden chemicals can be extremely dangerous to your dog or puppy. Ensure he has no access to poisoned areas or packets of poison. Dogs will often seek out snail bait. All poisons should be placed in a safe place and dogs should not be allowed to wander alone outside the yard where they might pick up something. If you suspect your dog has been poisoned, seek veterinary help IMMEDIATELY. If possible, you should take the packet/label from the poison with you to help the veterinarian identify the poison and treat it.

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